How to find out what your jewellery is worth

Start with why you want a value

"What's it worth?" has several honest answers for the same piece:

• Insurance or replacement value — what it would cost to replace.
• Resale or market value — what a buyer might pay.
• Scrap or melt value — the value of the metal alone.

These can be far apart. Knowing which one you need saves confusion. If you're insuring a piece, ask the valuer which basis they are using.

The metal

Hallmarks are the starting point. In the UK, gold, silver, platinum and palladium items above set weights must be hallmarked by an independent assay office. The marks show the metal, its fineness (for example 375 or 750 for 9ct and 18ct gold) and where it was tested.

Metal value is driven by weight, purity and the current market price of that metal, which changes daily. For many everyday pieces, metal is a large part of the resale value.

The stones

For gemstones, value depends on:

• Type — diamond, sapphire, ruby, emerald and others.
• Size — usually measured in carats.
• Quality — for diamonds, cut, colour and clarity.
• Whether they're natural, treated or lab-grown — this makes a significant difference.

A grading report from a recognised laboratory makes a stone much easier to value. Without one, a jeweller can only assess what they can see.

The maker and the design

Pieces by known jewellers or designers, with original boxes and paperwork, can sell for more than equivalent unbranded items. Antique and period jewellery has its own market, where style, craftsmanship and provenance matter.

Condition

Damage, missing stones, repairs, resizing and heavy wear all affect value. Don't attempt to clean or repair valuable items yourself before having them assessed.

Ways to get a value

1. A professional valuation from a qualified independent valuer, often for a fee.
2. Offers from jewellers or buyers — useful, but they're buying, so they need a margin.
3. Comparable sold prices for similar pieces, which help set expectations.
4. An indicative estimate using a tool like Estimo, as a starting point.

Getting more than one view is sensible for anything significant.

Selling safely

• Get a written offer before agreeing.
• Be wary of anyone who insists on a quick decision.
• If selling privately, meet somewhere safe and use a traceable payment.

Next steps

Check for hallmarks, gather any paperwork, and get an indicative range with Estimo's item valuation before you approach buyers. For tips on setting an asking price, see pricing items for resale.

Sources

• The Goldsmiths' Company Assay Office — hallmarking